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Takes the Cake

by James O. Fraioli
Sea Fare Image
Photo by Matthew Pietsch

By James O. Fraioli / Photo by Matthew Pietsch

August in the Northwest means fresh seafood, particularly crab. For all you boaters who happen to be dropping a pot or two for such an occasion, here’s a fabulous recipe to accompany your catch. Yes, there are countless versions of crab cakes out there, but this one—from my cookbook Sea Robins, Triggerfish & Other Overlooked Seafood with Chef Matthew Pietsch—is a real gem. The delicious cakes are easy to make, especially for breakfast as they’re the perfect accompaniment to fried eggs. For the crab, you can use either Dungeness crab or red rock crab. Because rock crabs aren’t as meaty and sought after as Dungeness, they’re typically not found in supermarkets or seafood shops. However, if you happen to find some rock crabs in your pots this summer, don’t be so quick to toss them overboard, especially the big ones. They’re perfect for this dish. Red rock crab meat is mild and tasty, with most of the meat found in the claws and thigh areas. A couple other notes: The fresh breadcrumbs referenced below refers to stale bread that’s pulverized into a fine crumb, while the featured Roasted Pepper Mustard can easily be substituted with any other creamy sauce you prefer, like a spicy or garlic mayo.

Crab Cakes with Roasted Pepper Mustard and Baby Kale

Serves 6

Roasted Pepper Mustard

(makes 4 cups)

16 medium-sized banana or Hungarian peppers
1 medium sweet onion, peeled and diced
8 garlic cloves, peeled
2 cups white distilled vinegar
1½ cups classic yellow mustard
1 tablespoon dry mustard powder
¾ cup clover honey
Kosher salt, to taste

Dressed Baby Kale

½ pound baby kale
Olive oil, as needed
½ lemon, squeezed
Sea salt, to taste

Crab Cakes

2 pounds fresh picked crabmeat
2 large eggs, lightly blended
½ cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced shallot
¼ teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons Roasted Pepper Mustard, plus more for serving
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon finely minced Italian flatleaf parsley

For Frying

3 cups breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ stick salted butter
Coarse flake salt, as needed

Begin by making the Roasted Pepper Mustard. Add the peppers, onion, garlic, vinegar, mustard, dry mustard, and honey to a medium sized saucepot over medium-low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until the peppers and onions are soft and tender, and the mixture has slightly reduced, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Once cool, transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Season with salt and adjust with additional vinegar and honey to achieve your desired sweetness/acidity. Set aside and refrigerate or freeze the extra.

To make the Dressed Baby Kale: Add the kale, a little olive oil, and lemon juice to a small mixing bowl. Gently toss and season with sea salt. Set aside.

To make the Crab Cakes: Separate the crabmeat into two equal portions. Set one portion aside.

Add the first portion of crabmeat to a medium sized bowl along with the eggs, breadcrumbs, garlic, shallot, black pepper, Roasted Pepper Mustard, salt, and parsley. Fold gently until combined. Fold in the remaining portion of crabmeat. Refrigerate the mixture for 1 hour.

Add the breadcrumbs to a shallow dish. Divide the crab mixture into 6 equal portions (about ½ heaping cup each). Pack each portion tightly together, forming a small, thick patty. Place each cake into the breadcrumbs, covering all sides. Continue with the remaining cakes.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter and heat until the butter is bubbling, and the oil is shimmering. Gently place the crab cakes into the pan and fry until crispy and golden brown on both sides while being careful when flipping to not break the cake. Remove the cakes and transfer to a plate line with paper towels. Sprinkle with coarse flake salt.

To serve, take a heaping spoonful of the Roasted Pepper Mustard and smear across the plate. Place one or two warm crab cakes off center and place a pile of the dressed baby kale beside the crab cakes. Serve with additional Roasted Pepper Mustard as a dipping sauce, if desired.

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